Spain has ‘long paddocks’! The old drovers’ tracks are the Vias Pecuarias, the markers I puzzled about yesterday.
A herd of goats used it recently. Quite a few of them around here, all milkers so far. Huge, huge, udders, no kids. I love goats’ milk and, many goat and sheep cheeses. Hmmm.
Leaving San Martin
No breakfast before 8.30 at the hotel in San Martin. Any day of the week. Oh well. I tried.
Turned out to be a blessing. On the way out of town I stopped in a small bar, the one the chainsaw-voice held court in the other day. The coffee was wonderful. Best of all the tomato had some garlic crushed in it so toast, tomato and olive oil. Hmmm. Cost only €2.30. The four or five men in there were unusually friendly. Wanted to chat and to know my destination for today. Unusual.
Toros de Guisando
An hour or so later I finally found the Toros, beloved of guide books covering this region. Fascinating and strange stone beasties, bulls or pigs. Most bets are on bulls, hence their name, toros. I could see them through the bars of the entrance gate. They are variously dated back to 1 to 2 centuries BCE.
I can see why they are fenced off though as they are pretty amazing. Even the Romans vandalised one, writing down its side in Latin. My Latin isn’t good enough. What does it say?
Way to cerberos
Two ways, quite different directions, have arrows. Another time I wouldn’t take the left path. 😙 The other way is shorter and possibly not mostly along a major highway as was my (bad) choice. Even tougher, mine got to a certain point and there were no yellow arrows for the next 10km. Strange. Nah, I WAS on the right route. 😉
Beaten up old car stopped beside me in El Tremblo, not far from my end point in Cebrero. Driver directed me to a better way through the network of roads. Gave me a lift for a few hundred metres that made it easier. He works with horses. A few years ago he rode a horse for the last section of one of the caminos. Wants to do it again but for a longer distance. Amazing whose path you can cross.
Arrived after taking my (jp’s really) raincoat on and off 20 times. Bit of rain. On goes jacket and up goes the horrible brown umbrella. It’s an umbrella. Right. A present from the nice young guy in San Martin. (After a few uses I now suspect it was dumped. But, it’s better than what I had so we will travel together a while yet. 😊 anyhow.) Then all down and off for a dry 30′ or so. Then repeat cycles. Better that it’s patchy rain like this. Solid – agh. A little bit of hail today. Very little bit. And it’s not cold when walking. I am bundled in so many layers, with and without the raincoat (and brown umbrella.)
Moving on: the many vine plantings all the way from Toledo are ready for spring. Ploughing around them is done, they are pruned, all awaiting the first buds. Bit early yet.
Some growers just have to make it clear what’s theirs! Unusual to see white rocks around someone’s vines like this. Maybe they are nuclear protection in disguise!
Ok. If locals eat here then it’s probably OK. And yes, there is a menu del dia. Good. First course is something to do with potatoes cooked in the local style.
The potatoes were like a potage with a few bits of bacon and a fried egg on top. Very nice. And filling.
Trotted around town. One night here will last a lifetime 😉. Not sure about accommodation at the next place I’m planning on staying. Maybe a challenge. So I may have to improvise.
And now to wait the requisite 5 hours + for this to load. True! And the program reformats it too, removing paragraphs and ……..