Palm Sunday in Benamocarra 

Palm Sunday I expected Benamocarra. the local town, would be shut. Absolutely nothing open, except some restaurants at lunchtime. No. My preferred bar is open, I bought fresh bread (baguette style), still warm and a can of sardines. Might go back and get some cheese too.

A churrería kiosk is opening so their churros are probably nice as that is all they make. Might visit that too when it finally opens. Yes, did you pick it? I was forgetting: churros are a breakfast food so I was too late. It was shutting, not opening. Saved from myself. Dammit. 

Church started a while ago (yes, yes, probably just before the churreria started winding down) but there are many people sitting around, walking, in this bar and in its outdoor area over the road. 

It’s cold. I’ve got on a vest and a neckwarmer with my usual singlet and shorts. Almost had to wear long sleeves!  

When I left Bambú this morning two of the cats were sensibly huddling closely in the sun. The 3rd sat in the sun alongside. Obviously a third wheel, an outcast and, coincidentally, the boss. I saw it intimidating one of the others yesterday and its battered ear and the bare patch on its flank look like a loser’s scars despite it being the winner of yesterday’s domestic. 

After my first coffee I was loitering, suspecting activity of some sort. More men than usual just hanging around.

 First I heard drums and then a band. They were playing a distinct, Latino, style of music I’ve only heard here and in Mexico. I love the almost discordant notes and the loudness.

The band leader led, followed by two carrying the Benamocarra banner, the older men and then kids. 

Behind them a guy in colourful red and white skirts, the local priest.


I Alongside and behind him, families, some individuals pushing prams and pushers. Some carried olive tree branches. I like seeing local adaptations.

What luck seeing this parade! Catherine had said there is a festival on today at a nearby town (patron saint is Dolores and today is her day). But this was interesting enough. Absolutely luck I was here at just the right time as it was through the central area in about 10′. Maybe they went back to the church as I’ve not seen them dribble back this way yet. 

And then a horseman just trotted up the street. Nicely tooled leather saddle, with a high back. Not in sexy dress up riding gear like those we saw in Jerez. Just working farmer gear. 😒 And later, this one. Not quite as exciting. 


Two delightful Spanish women, M and B and their cat, Ravel, have just moved into the apartment next door. Visiting pussy is very happy on her harness and lead and, from her front doorstep, started loudly telling the resident pussies as they inspect her one by one that it is now her place. 

Neither of my neighbours speak english and so we converse in Spanish. Happily for me they seem to speak clearly and at a reasonable pace. And they are patient.

Local ‘wildlife’

Yes, there are snakes. Apparently these small ones are dangerous. The opposite advice to what I received previously. I avoid them anyway so it matters little!

Except for one living one years ago, when I was walking the Via de la Plata Camino, I’ve only seen dead ones here, mainly just skeletons. Still, about the same number as I’ve seen alive or dead in decades of walking in Australia!

The goats walked in one direction one evening and I can’t figure where they are despite walking a fair bit around here. So yes. There were goats here. And I can finally show you 😇.


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