Alcaudete to Baena

My Fitbit and I don’t always agree. For example, it often reports I’ve slept well when I’m sure I haven’t. Today though it got it right. I did sleep well, despite my friend purring alongside me. I warned him I might snore. He leaves me for dead in both volume and duration. He does, however, respond to whistles or noises.  

Anyhow, my Fitbit: it recorded lots and lots of steps! As it should have. And confirmed my days of 30+km are done. For the time being anyhow. 

Only about 24 or 25km but in the heat you can add more to cover the suffering when there is no natural stop (= bar) from the start to the end. 

Nothing! Oh, except for olives and olive groves not much else. And the region is so so dry.

 Even as we left the hotel at about 07:10 for breakfast it was warm and I didn’t need to wear long sleeves for once.  

Looking back at the silhouetted castle was great. 

Got to the stage later though when I had to break out a Red Bull. Gave up on Pepsi yesterday. Warming it over many hours in a pack in the sun makes it taste awful. Red bull may not give as big a volume of liquid but it weighs less and gives a bit of momentum to a tired body.

B is quite agitated about the referendum in Catalonia today. I wish I had understood all he said when we were talking about the history of the present situation. But I didn’t. Seems to be a one-way lane to me as an outsider. Certainly interesting to follow.


We’ve been here for a few hours but I’m still having trouble thinking of it as a place I might ever want to visit again. Not even interested enough in the remaining bits of the Baena walls to explore them more closely. 


We arrived to find the fourth from the group of 4 Spanish pilgrims had caught a taxi and selected the bottoms of 4 of the 5 bunks. That left B and I sharing the same bunk. He very graciously offered to climb. Not easy as there is no ladder and I, frankly, couldn’t do it safely.   

Water in the shower is tepid. Except I’m lying down and tired I’m not wildly excited about this place at present. Four more possible snorers, plus B, is not exciting and it’s the time of day when I don’t understand much Spanish so it’s all going on around me. 

Even more exciting is the guy on the lower bunk right next to me has his head up this end, less than 20cm from me! And he snores. Aggghhhh. Scottie, please beam me out of here. Please😁😁😁😁😁😁 So, one snorer on top, one virtually sharing my pillow.  And a room full of paunchy middle aged guys in jocks. Well you might envy me. Well you might. 

I would have preferred the hotel down the road but I know B doesn’t want to pay much and we ended up in a hotel last night. Here costs €10 each and last night, €20. 

Oh well, tomorrow will be a shorter distance. Lucky, as I have a couple of blisters I’m already nursing. Toes that were operated on 10 weeks ago seem ok. So far. And I love my skinners after a day in boots💕. 

Added to my petty concerns, today is Sunday and so the shops are shut. I’ve got used to lovely Greek yoghurt for dinner. Something to look forward to tomorrow. And more dried figs tonight for a light dinner. 


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