Córdoba: a rest day

Breakfast in front of the Roman temple, an area updated in the year since I last visited. And it looks so good now. It’s down near the ever-shrinking market, opposite the town hall (ayuntamiento). 

No photos until I found some lens cleaner. Somehow I’d wiped olive oil on the camera lens. Thnx JP. 

Remember I told you I have to trouble with aspects of Benedo’s Spanish. He says he can’t say a few sounds properly. Well, he kept saying something like ‘odio’, not a word I’d associate with him as it means ‘I hate’ nor was it ever meaningful in context. After a few days of this I finally realised he was saying ‘otro’ which means ‘other’. Hmm more things made much more sense afterwards. 

Anyhow it’s good for my Spanish, the having to listen very carefully, and to extend my vocab. This week has meant more on vehicles, mud, irrigation, compost and the handling of olives, preserving in salt and pressing them. Not things I have a big call for usually but… 


I’ve been looking for escape routes around some sections of the Camino Mozárabe between Córdoba and Merida. Just as I was looking for bus routes (escapes!) it occurred to me that it’s the wrong way to go about it. I’m going to try to take it day by day instead. I’m sure I can no longer do 30+ km days, especially in the heat. Maybe it’s not true and, maybe I can as I’ve done about 160km already walking here from Granada. 

Everything (feet) should be settling down and should do so even more over the next few days. If I don’t try I won’t know. I would like to reduce my load a bit though but, can’t see how as I don’t want to dump very good gear (sleeping bag, montbell jacket and vest) and it still might get cool. (And 🐖 might fly too). Anyhow, I’ll continue to lump stuff that on another year might have been essential. 

Funny but changing from focussing on escaping to just going on is a bit of a relief. Seems improbable, contradictory even, but it’s how it is. 

In case you are wondering 4/5 of the bepaunched guys in jocks, who contributed to the (non celestial) concert one night recently, aren’t going on beyond Córdoba. Phew. 

However there many more peregrinos on this camino than I’d expected. Two Germans were at the same pension yesterday but left well before sunrise. We only saw their footprints, and the 4 Spanish were behind us. A day earlier there were 10 Italians ahead of us. So, time of year and, more people escaping some heavily walked routes elsewhere I guess. Certainly the Mozarabe stats show increasing numbers and many people like us won’t show up at all as we’re doing sections only. Eventually I guess the numbers will be enough to support a few more facilities along the way. 


Feet and mind are very happy for a rest day. I’ve refreshed my supply of werthers toffees, bought dried dates and figs and have a tin of sardines. Dates, though, are bloody heavy added to everything else. Hmm, a little reduction in their numbers today? What a good idea. 

I’ve been in touch with Benedo and we have a day off from each other. I wanted a break and am sure he must have needed one too although I know he’d have been happy to meet. Have told him I’ll meet him and Manolo along the track to Cerro Muriano tomorrow. 


A brief excursion to the archaeological museum: coffee outside, then the museum, one I like. Today the older section beside it was open. 

Definitely worth visiting it for the Roman statuary, tiles and Arab carving and the inside section for the historical outline and different displays. 

And of course, the bars of Córdoba: so varied and so ‘visitable’, like the one outside the museum and the one near my hotel. The tapas at the latter was a very nice pasta, very nice indeed. 

Future blogs

I expect wifi and broadband access may not be as good over the next week. Some places look pretty isolated so individual blogs may be a little separated. I’m guessing: olives, dusty track, mixed quality meals, snorers, more Spanish practise…. So, if no blog, guess one or all of those was the focus of my narrowed existence for the day!


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