Both the start (Canaveral) and the end (Galisteo) today were in the same accomodation as 4.5 years ago. Km of the camino were also the same, along very pleasant tracks through oak (bellota) trees. So much else had changed.
Until we got going we had 2 options, 28km or 16 today and 15 tomorrow. As you can guess, we chose the 28km option.
Tomorrow may be a mere 11 and the following day was to be 39 but, apparently there is now somewhere to stay in between.
I’m happy about that as while I know I can walk over 35km I’m not sure I’d have Victoria’s company at the end. Her endurance is building but she just can’t keep going as long as I can yet. As a day progresses she noticeably slows. But, she is walking more quickly overall, stays with me for much longer periods and, has a lot less general body soreness. Despite some blisters she persists.
So far in the albergue it’s only Victoria, David (another Spaniard), and I. The guy in charge gabbles, at a rate of knots. Luckily it’s pretty straightforwards or I’d be wanting him to take a valium, anything to slow him down. He can deliver a sentence in english but reverts to very rapid spanish.
It’s 18:00 and Monica, the Frenchwoman has just arrived! Heaven knows how her day has been. We saw her leaving, ahead of us this morning. We, luckily, had no problems and travelled pretty quickly. V’s phone said at 5.25km/hr but I doubt it.
We did a side trip to a small town called Grimaldo believing we could get food and coffee there. I should have guessed it was not going to be a success.
Crossing a creek and keeping our feet dry was not easy. Creeks on well used routes usually have stepping stones or something so you are not at such a risk as we were. Got across, bush bashed, another bad sign, and climbed a hill up to the town. First bar shut. Second bar shut. No obvious shops.
V asked an old lady about the bars and for a shop. Basically, there was a possibility one bar might open later and there was not one shop in the town. So, a futile detour and back to the track for us a little wiser about reading ‘tea leaves’.
Back to the start: I started walking with Ekhardt on this stretch 4.5 years ago. A big difference is we walked through a town mid morning (Riolobos), stopping for drinks and tapas. Later, we walked a long way on the highway. And that was hard.
Today, after our side trip to the rather grim Grimaldo, we stayed on walking tracks. This made such a difference. I arrived in Galisteo feeling quite comfortable. V was knackered and still resting while I headed off to explore the town again. (Code for: a coffee and a coke alone, ignoring conversations around me and the option of joining some others!). 😁
Galisteo is the town with the amazing walls, yes, an old walled city, in the middle of nowhere.
I went out at about 18:00 to see the walls again and to buy some food. Yes, sunlight and everything was open. I’m never going to adapt to that. And yup, I’ll keep practising.
By the time I got back 2 bike riders had arrived. One is from Austria. The other? No idea.
Tomorrow? Who knows. I’m not keen on continuing to the place I stayed last time but am very much looking forward to time in the old roman arch at Caparra again in the next day or so.