Galisteo to Carcaboso

The 4 of us left the albergue at about sunrise, 08:30! I love the walls of Galisteo, an old walled city, obviously. Inside the streets are the usual curved ones. 

Almost impossible to get from A to B unless you’ve been there a while. Took the group ages to get from the walls they’d been climbing to my bar yesterday. And I’ve similarly been lost in this town before.

A short walk today. We had planned 30km but after about 5km V’s legs needed a break. Suited me. I’ve started intermittently feeling something nasty 🤢 around one hip joint. It’s longstanding, usually settles quickly and doesn’t even merit the Camino drug of choice, brufen. 

Anyhow, 4 of us set out together. Crossed the beautiful, high bridge with a stork’s nest on top of a pole. The entire stretch was road but, strangely, I remember it as being more difficult last time. Not sure why.

 I walked with David this time, a Spaniard living in Canada. He’s interested in Spanish politics so I caught up on his ideas of the Catalonia situation. Interesting. 

Last time I was in our destination, Carcabosa, I was impressed by the little old lady who has a hostal/albergue here, Elena. Ekhardt and I had to keep going the day i first met her: we had plans. 

Coming back today to stay suited me. Elena is as lovely as usual but with more back pain than 4.5 years ago. She is one of those very old, warm, welcoming women. A hug for all new visitors. An enterprising person, using an old house as she has. 

And so, in Carcaboso, we farewelled David and Monica who will now be a day ahead of us. They are heading to the old Roman arch and town that we will get to tomorrow. 

The albergue/hostal is an old house, or part of one. Our room is on the north side so it’s cold while the south facing patio is hot. 

Good for my washing but I’m lying on the bed covered by a sleeping bag and wearing my lovely warm feather vest. First time the vest has seen the light of day this trip. Hopefully opening all the windows near the warm bits will eventually heat this room too. 


It’s currently nearly 17:00 and we are not long back from lunch. I had chickpeas with chorizo and V had soup. We then shared a tomato salad, chips and meatballs. Dinner will be fruit, hard boiled eggs (we have a kitchen again), cheese and bread. 

I can hear you echoing us, yet again: la vida de las peregrinas es muy duro! (A pilgrim’s life is very hard).  Ah yes. Indeed.


Carcabosa was once an important place between other significant Roman towns. Not a lot to show for it now except two exceptional milarios (roman distance markers), a large stone water container and the remnants of arches. Thanks to Manolo who recommended we check them out. 

There are also some derelict buildings, once hostals or similar. Once at least 4 in the same street there’s not much to see now. Inside the ceilings have fallen down. Definitely not structurally sound!

Maybe this town could benefit from some development of such past ruins. Hmmm. A very expensive thought. 


Heading towards Galisteo yesterday we walked through some beautiful pine plantations early on, past oak trees stripped for cork and through a really beautiful track.

First time this Camino: we crossed creeks  with running water. Obviously, unlike last time, not much but, enough to need to cross on stones at times. 

And sometimes up hills and once a bit of clambering to cross a road. 
So, all in all another good two days. 

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